How To Stop Destroying Your E-Bike | Winter E-MTB Maintenance Mistakes

How To Stop Destroying Your E-Bike | Winter E-MTB Maintenance Mistakes


Winter can be hard on EMTBs. The addition of natures grinding paste puts even more wear on the drivetrain, we drafted in MTB tech expert Doddy to show you how to stop destroying your E-Bike⚡️

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You can use protective tape to save your frame from cable rub and other scratches; keep an eye on your drivetrain; and try to avoid water ingress. Finally, don’t be too precious about your E-MTB! It’s a tool for having fun in the woods after all . 🤘

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54 Comments on "How To Stop Destroying Your E-Bike | Winter E-MTB Maintenance Mistakes"


  1. Have you had to learn any of these the hard way? Hopefully not! Share this video with your friends that may need to give their bike a little bit of TLC this winter!

    Reply

  2. when talking about drivetrain you guys never mention waxing your chains, it's extra faff compared to using lube but in my experience it makes the whole drivetrain last a lot longer (if done frequently enough)

    Reply

  3. Could you please give examples of water displacers other than WD-40?
    So in winter, I would apply a water displacer (eg., WD-40) to the chain, and then lube the chain with wet lube afterwards?

    Reply

  4. Its not possible to stop destroying an e Bike.i have three Merida e one sixty 900.two of them are allways in the Bike shop for repairing.and every two years a Bike life is over🙈.But its ok for me,i live and love this lifestyle without kompromises

    Reply

  5. You and GMBN have, by far, the best production vidoes about our sport, bar none. I have learned so much about techniques and maintenance from your channel that has contributed my greater personal enjoyment every week. There's no one that even comes close to your quality. A huge thanks.

    Reply

  6. what you call winter I call autumn. do you know what to do when it is 10-15 below the freezing point and 1.5m with snow? 🥶

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  7. Put vaseline on the contact pins of the bike to the battery (not the battery!!!) keeps oxydation at bay.

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  8. Can someone help me understand this, when I replace my chain with a new one the new one is always shorter, i always count the links of my old chain and cut the new chain to the same number of links. So if chains don't stretch how does the old chain end up longer

    Reply

  9. Doddy, my man.. did you just put threadlocker at the top of a screw @4:53? CMON MAN, you're not doing my OCD any solids!

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  10. IME you can avoid/minimise the hard gunk on your rear mech and cassette by avoiding Ceramic Lubes. Get a grunge brush on the wheels and some degreaser and that's it sorted. I use Purple Extreme and never have to deal with it anymore.

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  11. Also another good advice is avoid riding in those disgusting muddy conditions shown in this video 😂😂

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  12. Thanks Doddy. A good winter tlc reminder well presented as usual (I cannot image Mr Jones taking such care of his bikes!) 😎

    Reply

  13. Point one reminds me of scars.
    either you show them or hide them.
    I like every paint chip and scuff on my bike, each one tells its own story, some do double service as I have matching scars to scuffs/chips 😀

    Reply

  14. Umm. Sorry mate, I have to call you out on this one. Chains do stretch. The actual chain will be measurably longer than a new one with the same number of links. I don't know why you would say it's impossible for the chain itself to stretch. The steel itself that make up the flat metal links can definitely stretch and they do. Compare a new chain to and old one, it's not just the rollers, otherwise the overall length would still be the same. The rollers are simply floating on each pin and have nothing to do with the chain length. Any metal will stretch over time with enough repeated tension and impact stress. Why do you think spokes need to be retentioned periodically? They stretch on the opposite end of impacts when the top of the wheel pulls away from the center of the axle.

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  15. Winter is mentioned many times. Does it mean winter or ”winter”. Winter for me is lots of snow. Mud is autumn and spring issue.

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  16. "The scum and dirt on here is more akin to a tramps gumline"

    FFS! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm using that from now in Doddy! 🤣

    Reply

  17. Just use a bit of cardboard with a slot cut in it to slide over your axle and protect the disc and caliper when spraying stuff that might overspray…

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  18. Top tube protection I use a amazon basics cable tidy, they are made from Lycra so they stretch to fit you top tube. Get them dirty take them off and chuck them in the washing washing.

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  19. I have seen plenty of failed Brose motors from overzealous jet wash use.
    The problem seems to be water migration along the motor/crank shaft. This water, once it reaches the ground shaft dia for the sprag bearing will pit the diameter and cause it to rumble. Once that starts the sprag bearing is on borrowed time.
    I clean my Levo intelligently and don’t spray high pressure water at the BB area. After 1000kms my motor is still as smooth as silk.
    I sometimes feel sorry for bike manufacturers who have to try and accommodate stupidity.

    Reply

  20. The good thing about the Brose system is that it's going to stop working long before any of the mechanical bits on the bike wear out, therefore you don't need to bother maintaining your bike at all. Just buy a new bike every 2 months, maybe 3 months if you're lucky, and sell the old one to some unsuspecting sucker.

    Reply

  21. I've learned the hard way that water ingress into the Bosch motor casing along the speed sensor wire causes the sensor to fail. The result is Error Code 503 due to the lack of sensor data. No power is subsequently available.
    Prior to this problem, I had been out on the bike on several consecutive wet days. The bike had been cleaned carefully by dribbling water and using a rag to shift the muck. Despite being out of warranty (just), Bosch provided a new sensor free of charge.
    I have now sealed the point at which the sensor wire enters the motor casing with bathroom sealant and I place a towels over the motor and battery when cleaning. To give the bike time to dry properly, I intend to avoid using the bike on consecutive days in wet conditions, which is a bit limiting.

    Reply

  22. A really good trick I use for protecting your rotors from overspray is to buy the cheap disposable shower caps from ebay (£6 for 100) and put them over the rotors while lubing the chain. Works a treat 😁👍🏼

    Reply

  23. Thanks for the video, useful tips 😊perhaps a better analogy for a tramps gum line would be more appropriate though?

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  24. I had trouble with my Jam2 cutting out in wet conditions, removed the motor and put dielectric grease on the plug connectors, no trouble since!

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  25. This is not so much WINTER conditions as it is general WET conditions. A rainy summer day in Whistler will have these muddy conditions.
    I've used an e-bike on my outdoor job through two REAL winters, going for hours in -20 Celsius. Battery has worked like a champ. Not worried anymore. It can take abuse.
    Now I'm ready to put my own E7000-mtb through it's first scandinavian winter. I basically use it as a city car. Ice Spiker Pro tires on. Full coverage mudguards. Neoprene cover on battery.
    Only worry is road salt, but it's only used on highways here so I only expect small amounts that cars can bring from the highway to the roads I ride. Not easy to wash a bike in -20 Celsius :S

    Reply

  26. I found cleaning the cassette with wooden BBQ skewers works well. They fit in between the gears nicely and go all the way down to the hub. I rub both sides of the gear with the skewers while turning the crank, gets rid of the gunk that collects there. Cheers!

    Reply

  27. 'e-bikes', my fkg arse, call it what it is: say it with me; 'electric moped'. anyway, the shit is cringey.

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  28. Thank you for this video. There are not nearly enough maintaining videos on YouTube across all catagories. Keep it up. 🙂

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  29. It's no mud in the winter mud is mostly water, water turn into ice when it becomes zero degrees, here that's even long before the winter,,, if you have mud all year you don't have a winter. What you actually need to think about in the winter is all the salted ice and snow, that cause corrosion which is why it's impossible to use a ebike close to a habitated area in any winter country. Salt humidity and cold is all the components in a corrosion machine, like the one abus use to quality check their locks. So using the ebike in the winter is like storing it in a giant corrosion machine. So can I please have a contract with embn that any damage caused by using it in actual winter conditions will be covered by embn or are you just making people ruin there bikes on purpose?

    Reply

  30. worn paint on my cranks ? The horror … So this is why we ended up with 29ers .
    MTB riders have more money than any other riders in history , with non pro's paying up to 10 grand on a bike wtf .
    bike makers – Spend more money
    riders for years – no we're fine thanks
    bike makers – We got bigger wheels
    riders – oooooooh

    Reply

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