How to Check Your Motorcycle Charging System

How to Check Your Motorcycle Charging System



hello riders coding for motorcycle MD this video I'll be talking about how to check your charging system it's easy its quick I want to get right into it alright I'm not gonna be explaining exactly how to chant check turn system components that'll be next weeks but make sure you subscribe to find out exactly how to check that in case your motorcycle is not charging alright so it's very simple where's me checking a stationary charge with the battery is holding right now as well as when the motorcycle was running and then when I give it a little bit of power to see what that voltage is at while it's running it off idle situation let's find out on this VT 1100 or V 65 people like to say alright we need is your multimeter described below and then put in the blog when we using the volts DC section of this volts DC mine has a V with a line over it or a dotted line going to that section alright let's do it alright I don't even know if this bike charges to be honest with you so this would be a first time to check on this I've been charging the battery it was that about 12 volts we don't really want that okay we want the battery to be closer around 12 point for twelve point six all right if it's below if it's at if it's reading 12 volts there's only 25% of that battery's energy that's actually usable not saying that you can't charge them back up but if it stays at that rate it's going to keep dropping the percentage will keep dropping and the battery will become useless so it was that twelve point zero six I've been charging it on a pretty increased rate to trying to see if I can get it to come up a little bit let's check it out this will be the first check for seeing what the battery looks like in order to check the charging system out efficiently alright so let me take these clamps off before I let you keep myself boom boom all right let's check and see what the battery looks like right now so you guys see that yeah you can see that right I think so got some spit on it so volts DC batteries only charge in volts T and you can only charge in volts DC and calling me red in volts DC right AC would mean nothing for this battery unless you're checking charging system components but we're not doing that right now all right so volts you see on your meter B with a straight line dotted line whatever is long it's not a little wavy then you're good to go red positive black negative red positive black negative this is reading now twelve point four seven which is awesome okay you want to really check to make sure that you're checking it at the terminal itself this one has a lot of corrosion on the terminal cables actually but you want to be checking at the terminal itself not in the bolt I mean you can and I'll plug it the same reading 4.6 4.5 but you really wouldn't just want to make sure that you're checking at the terminal itself all right because there may be some piece of plastic someone left underneath in the positive I don't know who knows so check ahead terminal to be safe all right so we're reading twelve point four seven volts now we're going to check it with the bike running all right you may not hear me once I start the bike up but Washington Washington meter the meter will tell all all right and then then you'll hear the bike increase in rpm and we'll see what what the reading shows and I'll explain it and once I'm done to make this easier it's nice to have I got a nice alligator clip you can clip onto something so you're not using all four of your hands you only need to use one all right so twelve point four five four six let's start the bike up if I had the key to start it and let's see alright so here it's reading it's going up twelve point nine two point seven 13 which is good it's like it's evening out running around 13 points at the highest Oh thirteen point zero six thirteen ten all right now let's give it some rpms all right what you guys just witnessed was a perfect charging system all right that was awesome the idle charge was right around three point ten I'm sorry 13.10 and when I increase the RPM it brought it back up to even like fourteen point two which is fantastic and when I gave it even more rpms it did not want to go over 4.2 4.3 that is fantastic that means the regulator is regulating alright there's not too much bolt that's going in the battery if it was not working it's a regular inner portion was not working and be going fifteen sixteen seventeen volts going crazy on us so that's perfect all right the rectifier is working fine because the battery is charging rectifier is a one-way valve in a sense it brings AC to DC to allow the better to charge at the rectifier wasn't working you probably wouldn't see anything at the battery because the diodes might have malfunctioned or it's allowing the AC voltage to go through which is very uncommon so good regular right to fire the stator is putting out what it should I'm not gonna worry about going into helmet how much voltage is each lead off the state of charging I don't need to do any of that because it's charging perfect fourteen point two is a great charge alright it's a 12 volt battery 13 volts is a perfect battery it's charging at 14 so it's keeping it up right where it should be at all times see how simple that was go ahead and do it to your bike be super stoked about in fact that your bike and your bikes not needing anything that's crazy as far as the charging system goes and get out there and ride that's all I have to show you guys for this week make sure you subscribe to get the first look at the content of the following week or the next week to come I believe that the next cons he'll be posting is actually checking that stator checking that regulator rectifier making sure they are good inkay your battery was not being charged as always enjoy this is Cody from motorcycle nd bringing you quality tips tricks and advice for your next builder your daily rider see you guys next time later

23 Comments on "How to Check Your Motorcycle Charging System"


  1. Hey man, just changed my stator cuz my bike killed two batteries, I have tested the regulator rectifier it seemed to work fine, after changing the stator the idle voltage is 13 but when I put rpm on it drops to 12.5, my battery died after 16miles of riding in 2 days, what do you suggest me to do? Can't take it to the shop cuz they charge me lots of money and I'm broke (my bike is a 2002 yamaha vstar 1100)

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  2. Hi I have a 94 vf750 magna the stator wires the three yellow ones two of them were ripped out or in half by the chain does it matter which one goes where?would really appreciate any feedback you may have

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  3. hi …can you please tell me how a motorcycle with two source of electricity (battery and Stator) work together without any Short-circuit in the wire harness and other components !!

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  4. Hi! gdevening, How do I check if the water in the radiator is circulating. (just to be more confident that my water pump is working well) more power and thank you

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  5. Im having a charging and starting problem on a 85 honda elite 250 i have to hook a battery booster on to start themat idle its showing 12.4 but then when i rev it the voltage drop to about 6 to 7 volts at the battery

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  6. Hi Cody, just a quick note on analog systems without benefit of modern diagnostic equipment. A little over a year ago I was having problems with charging system on my 2000 V Star 1100. Without going into it deeply, lets just say that my battery kept dying, the Regulator/Rectifier kept burning out and once even started a fire. My initial knee kick response was to change the stator which I did. Being short on cash I was forced to get one on ebay which I now see was a total mistake, but you live and learn. To continue, after the third RR failed, I came to the conclusion that my problem was the stator and so got one from a local motorcycle salvage yard out of a running motorcycle. This solved the issue and has never returned. All this after spending major coin on a local dealership shop who in the end could only suggest a wire harness change. They had been working with me and despite my suggestions to thoroughly check the stator they could only come up with the harness change. My misgivings about this action were supported by the fact that the problem continued, a burned out RR and a dead battery. It was then that I took stock of what had conspired and the results then decided to change the stator again, this proved to be the answer. I mention all this just to illustrate how reasoning and deduction can win the day in ANY trouble shooting scenario.

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  7. I am gonna sound stupid but better to ask a dumb question than do something dumb to my bike. Question. Where is the rectifier on a 1987 1100 shadow?

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  8. Hi! My yamaha R3 got charging problem when i ride it in hot weather or traffic. But going strong in night or cool weather. It got some burn in rectifier plug also. What would you recommend me to do?

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  9. I know some of the Hondas have poor stock voltage regulators in them. They are Shunt style regulators, meaning, they send the excess voltage to ground and barely send enough juice to the battery to keep it fully charged. I found the Mosfet style regulators (google it) that are used on a lot of Yamaha motorcycles are far superior in that they send much more power to the battery and run a hell of a lot cooler in the process. I got rid of the stock regulator in my Honda Shadow and replaced it with one off of a Yamaha R1 and it works so much better. Now I can run heated grips, radio and driving lights and still run over 13 volts. It's amazing!

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  10. Hi, MD great videos keep em comin. I m restoring an 80' Suzuki GS 850 GL, have replaced reg/rect. (new), CDI box (used), Stator (new), Accel coils & wires (new), New plugs . New battery. It starts quick and runs great, BUT for only 4 to 5 minutes max,then it will start lightly popin' (backfiring) CDI gets very hot and finally engine dies.IF I throttle it hard will struggle to run a bit longer but CDI will start smoking I fried the previous CDI that way. IF I come back after about 30 mins. It will start and will run for another 4-5 mins CDI gets blazing hot and dies. Help!

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  11. Hi and thanks very much for the video!
    I went through this process myself, and everything went similarly (12.40ish at rest, up to 13.80ish running) EXCEPT when revved the bike, my voltage actually DECREASED.
    I tried a few times, same thing. Any idea why it might do this?
    2004 VTX 1300
    Thanks!

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  12. HI,Nice bit of explaining cheers, if you rev the engine and the meter stayed at 13 something volts not 14 plus does that mean that the regulator is dead, cheers DAVE

    Reply

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